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Monday, 15 August 2011

Islay.....and its goodbye to care*

We had a most wonderful week on Islay.  I've been going there for almost 30 years, I guess, and I think John has grown to love it too.  There's so many memories from here - birdwatching, windsurfing, walks, New Years (including Finn's first, at 3 months, dancing the Gay Gordons with my dad just after midnight!), otters, midges and so much more.

This was the first visit for 3 years which is probably the longest gap ever.  It is a beautiful drive to get there, once the Central Belt is left behind, passing through my old work area of Argyll (I was based in Lochgilpead for about 2 1/2 years when I was in my early 20s) and heading down the Mull of Kintyre to Kennacraig where the ferry sets sail from.

Getting onto the ferry is really magical and that's when I always feel the holiday has really started.  This year we sailed on the new ferry 'Finnlaggan', which felt a little strange, after years of sailing on the 'Lord of the Isles'.  One year we sailed on the 30th December and John and I got into the holiday spirit a little too much and ended up, the following day, seeing in the New Year much more quietly than usual for those pre-baby days! And other years, not many, have been filled with sea-sickness.  This year we had, probably, the best sailing ever - it was simply stunning with crystal clear, sunny and calm weather.
The 'Paps' on the neighbouring island of Jura, from the ferry
Looking down the coast of Islay - our cottage was at the far end of this view

The first night the weather changed dramatically and we were kept awake with howling wind and rain.  Our cottage, which is the one we stayed in last time, is right at the dead end of a single track road complete with 3 gates to open en route.  It doesn't have electricity but there's endless hot water from an oil-fired rayburn and gas canister cooker and fridge - the real selling point for us, apart from unwinding, is that, because of the location, the children can truly run wild - we have no need to worry about cars or other people.

Despite the pretty miserable weather the kids were desperate for a swim so we braved the rain on the second afternoon and made the 2 minute walk to the beach in front of the house - it was quite a quick dip but they loved it!
What a view to have on your doorstepSwimming on the beach in front of the house

The forecast was good for the middle of the week so we planned a trip to the neighbouring island of Jura.  The little ferry shuttles the short distance between the two islands across the Sound of Jura.  There's a huge amount of tidal water that has to make its way in and out the Sound and the ferry crosses crabwise - always looking as if it is heading in completely the wrong direction as it battles the current.
Jura ferry

The day was beautiful and we settled onto Loch na Mile beach for a good long while.  A couple of other families visited at various times but on the whole we had it to ourselves.  The kids were in the water for over two hours - it wasn't ideal for the boogie boards as there was hardly a ripple but its amazing what fun you can have with a board even without a wave.  To make the day even more special a golden eagle flew past the beach and headed off to the Paps (Jura's hills) and as we were waiting for the ferry home we saw porpoises swimming in the Sound.


Then everyone else set off on their bikes to cycle some of the way back and I picked them up, after a few miles, in the car.
The remainder of the week was more overcast and a little less glorious and we mostly stayed at the house and made the most of the outdoor space on our doorstep......cricket, football and learning to bike jump.
The field to the side of our house
Air time for Finn
Angus concentrating hard
Islay having fun - but not managing to jump yet

On the last day we visited Kilnaughton Bay which has always been one of my favourites.  There was slightly more of a wave but sadly not quite enough to get a real surfing feeling - not that anyone seemed to mind!
Picnic lunch on the beach
Sharing the beach with cows and their calves - beautifully located cemetery in the background

So, all in all, we had another wonderful holiday on beautiful Islay.  I suspect we may be back next summer.  



* Lyrics for Westering Home - where the saying 'Islay- and its good bye to care' comes from::

Westering home and a song in the air
Light in the eye and its good by to care
Laughter o love and a welcoming there
Isle of my heart my own land

Tell me a tale of the Orient gay
Tell me of riches that come from Cathay
Ah but it's grand to be waken at day
And find oneself nearer to Islay

And it's westering home with a song in the air
Light of me eye and it's goodbye to care
Laughter and love are a welcoming there
Pride of my heart my own love

Where are the folks like the folks of the west
Canty and couthy and kindly, our best
There I would hie me and there I would rest
At home with my own folks in Islay

And it's westering home with a song in the air
Light of me eye and it's goodbye to care
Laughter and love are a welcoming there
Pride of my heart my own love

Now I'm at home and at home I do lay
Dreaming of riches that come from Cathay
I'll hop a good ship and be on my way
And bring back my fortune to Islay

And it's westering home with a song in the air
Light of me eye and it's goodbye to care
Laughter and love are a welcoming there
Pride of my heart my own love

12 comments:

Beth of The Linen Cat said...

It looks and sounds idyllic. We have stayed in a few remote national trust properties (not without electricity, but one without a bathroom and only a loo that had to be emptied into a septic tank - guess who got that job!) and I love these kind of holidays, it's great to properly get away from it all and in my case be cut off from my laptop and phone! Glad you had such a good time. Bethx

Julie said...

Yes, its great to be away from technology for a while. I've often looked at the national trust properties and wondered about staying in them - some look fantastic. Juliex

andamento said...

It looks lovely. I've been to Islay a long time ago on a cycling trip and we stayed in the Youth Hostel. One of the guys was snoring so loudly he emptied his dorm - all the other guys ended up sleeping in the common room and he managed to keep all us ladies awake too!
Is the cottage you stay in available for rent by the general public? It sounds nice and has a fantastic location, as you say.

Sarah said...

Even overcast it looks like it was an idyllic holiday :-)

Anonymous said...

I sounds like you've had a wonderfully busy holiday! How lovely to make a special trip to London with each child before they start school. That's just such a lovely idea! And getting to have all that fun in the water and with the bikes, I bet there was never a chance for them to say "I'm bored" this holiday!

Julie said...

Anne - sometimes sleeping and youth hostels don't go together very well!
Yes, its a normal rental property from Ardtalla Estate - not very luxurious but perfectly adequate and the location is fantastic - here's the link http://www.ardtallacottages.co.uk/ardtalla_2004/index.html
Juliex

Julie said...

Sarah - it was perfect. Juliex

Julie said...

Amanda - there might have been the occasional 'I'm bored' but not many! Juliex

periwinkle said...

Oh it looks just idyllic and a perfect place for childhood holiday memories.

Julie said...

Lisa, yes, the boys remembered their last visit well so Islay should this time too. Juliex

Dawn said...

Beautiful pictures ans stunning scenery - I like the occasional glimpse of spaniel too!

Julie said...

Dawn - its very difficult to get anything other than a glimpse of spaniel - Kipper doesn't stay still for long! Juliex